Return to the BUILD

“In this assembly session you will install the ignition coil in the engine housing and mount the left boot panel on
the body.




Materials: The Left Boot Panel is metal and the Fuel Hose is plastic.


A replacement (corrected) Distributor Cap was supplied with the previous stage, so I wanted to describe the process to replace it. At the same time, I decided to get rid of the tacky bright blue spark plug wires.

Replacing the Distributor Cap

Disconnect all of the Spark Plug Wire Connectors from the existing Distributor CapI tried to leave the eight black Connectors in the old Distributor Cap for now:

Carefully pull the existing Distributor Cap up off of the Rotor. The Distributor Cap was just pushed in, so there are no screws holding it in place. Take care not to damage the plastic Rotor base:

Gently pull the Connectors out of the old Distributor Cap. The Connectors will be reused, but the old Distributor Cap can be discarded:

Cut one of the High Voltage Terminals from the sprue, as shown. A pair of sprue cutters or a sharp hobby knife work best here:

Press the previous eight Connectors as well as this new High Voltage Terminal into the new Distributor Cap, as shown:

Fit the new Distributor back into the top of the Rotor:

Reattach all eight of the Spark Plug Wires around the outer perimeter posts of the new Distributor Cap.

At this point, I replaced all of my stock blue Spark Plug Wires with some black 1/16″ OD 0.6 mm ID PTFE tubing. I found this tubing on, but unfortunately the product I bought is no longer available. I also inserted a length of 22 gauge Craft Wire into each piece of tubing to allow me to bend the tubing into the shape I wanted. After the Ignition Coil was installed in the steps below, I connected the rest of these new ‘spark plug wires’:

Installing the Ignition Coil

Stage 75.1

Retrieve your Body assembly from the previous stage. Down inside the right side of the engine bay, remove this CM screw from the Front Right Chassis Beam Cover Plate (Piece 1) we installed back in Stage 9.

This CM screw is no longer needed, but leave the Cover Plate in place, as shown:

Retrieve your Ignition Coil and the KM screws from the previous stage. Secure the Coil Bracket to the Cover Plate as shown, driving one (1) KM screw into the same hole where the CM screw used to be:

This is your friendly reminder to try using 3-in-One Oil on all screws going into metal:

Stage 75.2

Retrieve the High Voltage Cable from the previous stage. Fit one end of this cable onto the pin on top of the Ignition Coil and the other end to the High Voltage Terminal in the center of the Distributor Cap, as shown.

If you didn’t see above, I already installed the High Voltage Terminal onto the replacement Distributor Cap. I also swapped out the stock blue High Voltage Cable with my new replacement black tubing and craft wire inserts:

Here is what it looks like with all of my new ‘spark plug wires’ installed. I even followed the firing order of a newer Hemi engine just for fun. The black tubing did require tiny drops of glue to hold the ends in place, but I think it looks much more realistic:

Stage 75.3

Retrieve your Body assembly from the previous stage and turn it upside down on a soft cloth. Fit the D-shaped post on the curved end of the Fuel Hose into this matching hole in the Rear Section of the Car Body, as shown.

The peg on the end of this Fuel Hose will eventually fit into a hole on the Boot Floor Panel in Stage 106:

Secure the Fuel Hose into place from above with one (1) KP screw:

Stage 75.4

Fit the five posts of the Left Boot Panel through these matching holes in the inner left surface of the Rear Section of the Car Body, as shown:

Stage 75.5

Secure the Left Boot Panel to the Rear Section from the outside with five (5) SM screws:


I have a feeling that the Ignition Coil was overlooked in the original design of this model. When this error was found, they had to provide an updated Distributor Cap and fit the Ignition Coil into an existing hole. These ‘in-progress’ updates are OK by me as long as they create a more realistic model.

Next Up

 Stage 76 – Rear Inner Panels

11 thoughts on “STAGE 75”

  1. 1/16″ OD 0.6 mm ID PTFE tubing is impossible to find! You’re 100% right – the black looks far better than the stupid blue. I wonder if airbrushing it would work? I just started the build… hopefully Amazon will have it back in stock by then..

    1. Yeah, it is not easy to find. Perhaps try alibaba or ebay for the tubing. You may be able to airbrush it, once it is bent into shape. I am not sure if bending it after painting would damage the paint.

  2. I looked on those sites and many others. I wonder where the model manufacturers get them?
    If you run into a suppler…. grab it. You’ll make a fortune! lol

    Best to leave it as it is. You’re thought on paint damage is probably right. Even over time it could peal

    (blue HT leads on a black car… really? . . in my case, I guess so.. lol!!)

  3. I think I found a supplier for the tubing.
    I need to confirm I have the size right

    ID: 0.6mm
    OD: 1/16″

    Or the way they are listing it: Black PTFE tubing OD 1/16″(25.4mm/16=1.59mm), ID 0.6mm

      1. Thanks!
        If this works out, I’ll let you know the vender and hopefully this will be helpful to others building the car.

  4. The tubes I ordered for the HT leads from ebay did work. The 3 sizes fit snugly on the plugs; however, the tubes are very flimsy. They are not as firm as the stock HT leads, but if you insert craft wire, they can be easily formed to person preference.
    The tubs are not glossy like what is provided in the build.
    The sizes I ordered that work are: 1mm, 0.75mm and 0.5mm. They do sell 0.3, but they are out of stock.
    The tightest fit was the 0.5mm. It took some doing to get this on the plug.
    The 0.75mm fit as tight as the stock leads.
    The 1mm, of course fits loose. It does work, though you may want to use the tiniest amount of glue possible.
    The product is called “Silicone Rubber Float & Rig Tube.” I think they are used as some kind of fishing gear / tackle.

    I’ll be ordering from, and will follow up ASAP.

  5. Follow up. Their tubes come with wire firmly attached to the inside of the tube. You can push the wire through to snip off the end, then using a sewing needle, push the end of the wire back through the tube making a void at each end.
    However, they suggest purchasing their shrink tubing, which I also ordered in 0.75mm. Its firm; but works best by inserting wire through the tube. You don’t need to heat-shrink it, just apply it as normal. However, I did shrink the tube by placing two cut wires on the ends. Then removed the end wire making a void. It worked perfect and also looks like a real HT – sparkplug wire!
    I did more investigating and Amazon does sell rolls of heat shrink tubing (3/32 Inch 20 Ft XHF 3:1 Waterproof Heat Shrink Tubing Roll Marine Grade Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tube, Insulation Sealing Oil-Proof Wear-Resistant Black).

    One last suggestion is They sell tubing of various sizes and colors. Their smallest is 1.2mm (

    Hope all this helps..

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